In Tune With the Times


Who says downsizing has to be bad? For the past few years the luxury watch industry has been super-sizing timepieces -- watch faces were measuring north of 44 millimeters, or almost two inches, looking like a slab of steel or gold on the wrist and even giving the wearer a bit of a workout.

But now the pendulum has swung in another direction, with watches getting a smaller and shapelier silhouette.

Perhaps it has to do with a shift in attitude and an overall desire to keep the trappings of wealth a bit more under the radar, but watch faces, particularly women's watches, have shrunk to less than the 30-millimeter mark.

Leading the way on the telescoping path of watch size are many of the major fashion houses, like Christian Dior and Hermes. Accustomed to the shifting tides of fashion, maybe they were able to spot the desire for change earlier than the traditional watch manufacturers.

Also, the prominence of quartz movements in these smaller models makes it easier for brands to come up with various designs to fit the new mood.

So this year there will be the new Mini D de Dior from Christian Dior. Created by the house's jewelry designer, Victoire de Castellane, its face measures just 19 millimeters. The Medor mini from Hermes, which has just arrived in stores, is only 22 millimeters and has the watch's face hidden away under the brand's iconic pyramid-shaped top. Even Gucci's latest oval-shaped Marina Chain watch comes in at 26 millimeters in its smallest incarnation.

"The smaller watches are indeed coming back, and I feel that this is a natural progression," says Elizabeth Doerr, editor of Wristwatch Annual. "It's sort of like flared pants in fashion: you have straight-leg pants, then flares, then straight legs again -- everything comes and goes in waves, and watch fashion is in no way exempt." True, there are watch trends, just like there are trends in any other creative field, and in addition to the smaller case size, there has been a reduction of ostentatious adornment. Both the new Dior and the Hermes watches have understated bands, black satin and a strip of leather respectively. Chanel, too, which introduced an updated version of its classic Premiere watch last year that incorporated the ceramic element of its J12 line, is debuting at Basel this year a new edition with a rubber wrist band. "We have chosen to use rubber as we consider it a modern material which we have improved in term of quality and durability," says Nicolas Beau, Chanel's international watch director. These contemporary band styles, paired with the judicious use of diamonds only on the bezel or the clasp, or just as an accent, have created a collection of watches that look both feminine and modern. And they are understated enough, with their small size and relatively small price (most starting at euro 2,000 to euro 3,000, or about $2,700 to $4,000), to make them almost guilt-free purchases that will not break the bank.
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