The Lowdown on Lamb

For some reason, Americans have never been big lamb eaters (only about a pound per person per year). The rest of the world, meanwhile, enjoys the meat, especially in New Zealand, where per capita consumption is about 60 pounds a year.

Once upon a time, the meat from a sheep was tough and stringy, primarily because the animals were bred for wool, as well as meat, and were moved around a lot from pasture to pasture. In the 18th century, sheep breeders in England were able to produce more compact, meatier animals that were raised just for food. The result is that lamb has become more tender and flavorful, and, like all foods, can be part of a healthy diet.

Lamb generally refers to meat from sheep that are less than 1 year old (mostly 5-7 months of age). The cut of the lamb determines the amount of fat and the degree of tenderness. For example, the leaner cuts -- like the foreshank and parts of the leg -- are less tender than cuts from areas where the muscles are not used very much, like the loin and the rib. However, since lambs are smaller and younger than beef cattle, even the lean cuts are more tender than corresponding cuts of beef.

When you buy lamb, look for meat that is firm and pinkish (lamb darkens with age). The bones should be reddish at the joint and moist. The fat should be a creamy white. If you have the option to do so, have the butcher remove or trim the external fat. The thin coating on a leg of lamb (fell) helps the meat retain it s juices, so don't remove it before cooking.

Lamb should be stored in its original wrapping in the coldest part of the refrigerator. If you are not going to use it right away, be sure to freeze it in an airtight package. Large cuts of lamb can be frozen for six to nine months; small chops, cubes and ground lamb will last only about three to four months.

Lamb often has a strong flavor, which mellows when you cook the meat with fresh herbs, spices and aromatic vegetables. For a Middle Eastern stuffed breast of lamb, saute finely chopped garlic, and stir in cooked rice or couscous, chopped parsley, raisins, cinnamon and chopped almonds. Spread the stuffing on the lamb, then roll and tie the breast. The rolls can be browned in a large heavy skillet before roasting them in the oven.

To cut down on the fat, roast your potatoes and other vegetables separately from the leg of lamb. This way, fat that drops from the meat will not be absorbed by the vegetables. You can flavor the lamb by making 1/2-inch slits all over it and inserting a sliver of peeled garlic in each slit. Then rub the entire leg with rosemary, basil, chopped parsley and pepper; and roast it.

Mint is one of the best accompaniments to lamb. You can make a wonderful sauce by combining chopped fresh mint, white wine vinegar and honey. Try this with any cut of lamb.

Lamb shanks make good soups and stews, and can easily take on an Indian, French, Middle Eastern or African flavor by simply changing the vegetables and spices used.

Ground lamb can be used like any ground meat but should be browned and strained to remove some of the fat before using it in a sauce or stuffing.

The following recipe is from our new "Wellness Kitchen"cookbook (Rebus, 2003). Moroccan Lamb and White Bean Stew
1 1/2 cups chicken broth (low fat)
3/4 teaspoon ground ginger
1/2 teaspoon pepper
1 large onion, finely chopped
2 carrots, thinly sliced
2 parsnips, thinly sliced
3/4 pound leg of lamb, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
1/2 cup pitted dried plums (prunes) coarsely chopped 3 tablespoons tomato paste
1 1/2 cups coked white beans
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup cilantro
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

In a Dutch oven or large saucepan, combine the broth, ginger, cinnamon and pepper, and bring to a boil over medium heat. Add the onion, carrots and parsnips; cook, stirring frequently, until the vegetables have softened (about 10 minutes). Stir in the lamb and cook until the lamb is no longer pink (about five minutes). Add the dried plumbs, tomato paste, white beans, salt and 2 tablespoons of the cilantro. Cover and simmer until the lamb is cooked through and tender (about 20 minutes). Stir in the remaining 2 tablespoons of cilantro and the lemon juice.

Makes four servings, each of which has 392 calories, 10 grams of fat and is a good source of beta carotene, fiber, folate, niacin, potassium, selenium, vitamin B-12 and zinc.

Note: To change the basic recipe, substitute dried apricots for the dried plums and chick peas for the white beans. Omit the parsnips and add 2 more carrots. Or try another variation: Substitute 1/2 teaspoon each of rosemary and tarragon for the ginger and cinnamon. Omit the dried plums, and substitute chopped parsley for the cilantro.

Sheldon Margen, M.D., is a professor of public health at the University of California at Berkeley. Dale A. Ogar is managing editor of the University of California at Berkeley "Wellness Letter." They are the authors of "Wellness Kitchen Cookbook." "The Simply Healthy Lowfat Cookbook," "The Wellness Lowfat Cookbook" and "The Wellness Encyclopedia of Food and Nutrition."