By Melissa Foss
Foundation is one of the most widely available types of makeup, yet it's also one of the least understood. There are literally hundreds of formulas to choose from that do everything from cover redness and shrink pores to give skin a firmer look and even erase signs of aging. "Today's foundations don't just make the skin look better; they make it function better," says makeup and hair expert Eva Scrivo, owner of the Eva Scrivo Salon in New York City. Still, the endless options can be overwhelming, leading most of us to skip foundation altogether or pick one that's not quite right for our complexion or skin type. As a result, we often end up with a mask-like finish, flaky or greasy skin, more evident lines, wrinkles or the dreaded start-and-stop line. But with Shape's foundation guide, you can find the right one to make your skin look -- and behave -- better than ever!
Apply five dots of foundation to your skin, then blend for a flawless finish.
You Want to Add Radiance
The perfect foundation: If your skin is in good shape (i.e., it shows few, if any, imperfections), consider a lightweight illuminating foundation. These typically contain microscopic light reflectors, which impart subtle luminosity. Try Estee Lauder medium-coverage Lucidity Light-Diffusing Makeup SPF 8 ($32.50; esteelauder.com). This foundation is available in 13 shades.
Quick tip: Adding a drop or two of a liquid highlighter to your foundation will increase luminosity and produce an overall glow. Try Chanel Sheer Brilliance in Sun Kissed ($42; gloss.com), a subtle bronze.
You Want to Reduce Signs of Aging
The perfect foundation: Take advantage of foundations with age-defying ingredients like retinol. Bonus: These liquids also help smooth away other skin problems that accompany lines, such as an uneven, rough texture. Editor's pick: Neutrogena's oil-free Healthy Skin Enhancer with retinol and SPF 20 ($11.75; at drugstores), available in six mistake-proof shades. If you crave a tightening effect, look for "firming" or "lifting" on the label, such as Shiseido's Makeup Lifting Foundation ($40; shiseido.com) with hyaluronic acids to plump the skin, light-diffusing particles to conceal unevenness, and an SPF of 16. Keep foundation fresh with a light dusting of translucent powder.
Quick tip: Soften the look of deeper lines with foundation primer. Primers function as a base and prevent foundation from creeping into crevices, thereby making facial lines less noticeable. Check out DiorSkin Moisturizing Radiance Makeup Base ($39; sephora.com).
You Want to Minimize Pores
The perfect foundation: Oil-free matte formulas are your best choice here because the subtle finish they impart reduces the appearance of pores (and any imperfections). Try Rimmel oil-controlling Stay Matte Compact Powder Foundation ($7; at drugstores), available in six shades.
Quick tip: Keep your foundation fresh with powder touchups throughout the day. A translucent powder is ideal. These "won't pile color pigments on the edges of your pores," making them more visible, says Los Angeles celebrity makeup pro Brett Freedman, who recommends MAC Blot Powder ($17.50; maccosmetics.com).
You Want Coverage That Lasts
The perfect foundation: The first thing to look for is an SPF of at least 15 -- so you're well-protected against incidental sun exposure. Next, long-wearing, water- and sweat-resistant coverage is key. We love Prescriptives Flawless Skin Total Protection Makeup ($39.50; prescriptives.com), with new Flexmatrix Technology that allows the lightweight foundation to stay put all clay long. Added pluses: It's water- and sweat-resistant and has an SPF of 15.
Quick tip: If you're getting more than just incidental sun exposure (i.e., you're spending a lot of time outdoors), make sure to apply additional SPF underneath your long-wearing foundation for extra protection. We like Clarins oilfree UV Plus Protective Day Screen SPF 40 ($36.50; gloss.com).
You Want to Play Down Oiliness
The perfect foundation: For skin that's prone to shine, there's no better choice than oil-free and noncomedogenic (nonpore-clogging) makeup. Best bet: Revlon's fragrance-free New Complexion Makeup ($12; at drugstores), available in nine shades.
Quick tip: If your skin is a little oily and a little dry, try foundations for combination skin; they contain "smart" microspheres that hydrate areas that need moisture while delivering oil control to shiny spots. One good option: L'Oreal Ideal Balancing Foundation for Combination Skin ($12.70; at drugstores).
You Want to Minimize Redness
The perfect foundation: Mineral makeup is ideal for skin that's prone to irritation and redness, and is particularly good for people who suffer from rosacea, a skin disorder characterized by acne-like bumps and a flushing of the skin. "Mineral makeup contains zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, both of which have soothing properties that help calm skin," explains makeup artist Jane Iredale, founder of the Great Barrington, Mass.-based Jane lredale Mineral Cosmetics. Formulas typically offer medium to high coverage, perfect for hiding the visible capillaries that often accompany redness. Try skin-soothing Jane Iredale Liguid Minerals ($46; skin skinstore.com), with vitamin C, aloe vera and seaweed extracts.
Quick tip: As a nice alternative to a high-coverage foundation, choose a lighter formula (e.g., sheer) that works with the rest of your face. Then hide visible capillaries with a tiny bit of concealer. "Painting" it directly onto red spots with a concealer brush will provide a natural finish that doesn't look caky, Freedman says. Try Clarins Instant Light Perfecting Touch Concealer pen ($26; gloss.com), available in three shades.
You Want to Moisturize Dry Skin
The perfect foundation: Hydrating foundations come in liquid or cream versions and offer a weightless feel, thanks to moisturizing elements such as hyaluronic acid, which draws water from the air for daylong softness. Check out Chanel Vitalumire Satin Smoothing Creme Compact SPF 15 ($55; sephora.com) with radiance-enhancing light reflectors.
Quick tip: Skip powders and matte finishes, which can make dry skin look parched. Likewise, avoid powder blush; cream formulas (Bobbi Brown's Pot Rouge for Lips and Cheeks, $22; gloss.com) make skin look dewy and fresh.
Find the Right Shade for You
- Do the swipe test. Apply a dot of foundation to your cheeks, then view it in natural sunlight, where colors appear truest. Since blazing sunlight is too bright, head for indirect light, like a shady spot or the inside of your car. If you can't sample before buying (as is the case with drugstores), ask about the store's return policy. You should be able to exchange it if it isn't the right shade. Try Cover Girl's goof-proof foundation.
- Look for color-adaptive formulas. These foundations actually "adapt" to skin's undertones, giving you leeway if you choose a shade lighter or darker than you should have. Try Estee Lauder Individualist Natural Finish Makeup ($32.50; esteelauder.com) in one of its 28 shades, L'Oreal True Match Foundation with 24 hues ($10), or CoverGirl TruBlend Makeup ($8.50; both at drugstores), which is available in 15 shades.
Today's formulas not only hide imperfections; they make your skin look younger and healthier.
Four Steps to a Flawless Finish
1. Moisturize. "Prepping skin with moisturizer gives foundation a smoother surface to glide over," says New York City makeup pro Nick Barose. Ideally, use like-minded moisturizer and foundation: an oil-free [product] with an oil-free [product], for example.
2. "Dot" on foundation. Apply five dots total: one on your forehead, nose, chin and each cheek. Blend with fingers to help it spread evenly (the heat from your fingers warms the foundation).
3. Use concealer as necessary. You won't need to use as much if you apply it on top of foundation, and less concealer means a more natural finish.
4. Powder lightly. If you have normal-to-oily skin, use the velour puff that comes in a powder compact. If you have dry skin, use a powder brush; it applies less powder than a puff will, for a dewy finish.
Writer Melissa Foss lives in New York City with her husband, Kristopher; Maltese puppy, Clover; and every kind of foundation, concealer and powder known to woman.
Melissa Foss, the author of "Find the Right Foundation," knows a thing or two about makeup. A self-proclaimed product junkie, the former Harper's Bazaar senior beauty editor admits that even though her marriage last year motivated her to tidy her cosmetics cabinet, she's still a bit overstocked. "When my now-husband, Kristopher, moved in with me, I had to pare down," she says. "He thinks I have a hilarious amount of beauty products." Originally from Austin, Texas, Foss lives in New York City, N.Y., where she runs and weight trains five days a week. Her writing has appeared in Harper's Bazaar and People.
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