Study the anti-aging skin creams at any local store and you might end up with a few new frown lines from trying to sort them all out.
What the heck are aminopeptides, marine collagen, dermo- peptides, Pro-Retinyl A, Pro-Lastyl, Vyo-Serum and Bio-Vityl?
Can one product really increase cell turnover, reduce wrinkles, firm skin and provide 24-hour "moisturization?" Can it boost skin strength and resiliency, brighten and smooth, anti-sag and ultra-hydrate?
The answer, according to a couple of local dermatologists: Maybe.
"You can spend a lot of money on these skin care products, but if you're not using sunscreen every day, you're only doing half of what you should," says Barbara Einhorn, dermatologist with Western Dermatology Consultants in Albuquerque, N.M.
"Definitely there is no cream that works as well as a filler," such as Botox injections, adds dermatologist Janice Moranz.
But for baby boomers seeking needle-free and less costly ways to reverse some signs of aging, there is hope.
Lookin' Good
Just ask Ann Stokes, co-owner with her husband of Ethan Allen furniture store.
"I think my skin looks good for 60 -- almost 61," she says. "I could do Botox or fat injections, but I've earned these things (wrinkles); I'm just gonna let 'em show."
Her truce with wrinkles comes from what she hasn't done -- "I've stayed out of the sun since I was 30, and I don't smoke," Stokes explains. And then there's what she has done, including using a wrinkle cream she discovered through Moranz.
"I've tried all sorts of wrinkle stuff, and I haven't had good results with anything," says Stokes. "But I've been using Sens for almost two years, and my skin's never looked this good."
According to Moranz, the best way to battle aging is with a face-lift, followed by laser treatments, Botox and other injectable fillers, and then, finally, skin creams.
"You are going to get some improvement, but it would be a lot more subtle," she says. "You have to be patient because it's not where you wake up and your skin is tight."
According to the American Academy of Dermatology, consumers should look for products with ingredients such as the antioxidants vitamins C and E. An alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) product can also help remove the dead outer layers of skin, leaving the face with a fresh, younger appearance.
AHAs are particularly beneficial for wrinkles around the mouth and eyes, two areas where women usually want to see the most improvement, according to the academy.
Einhorn says idebenone, in Prevage MD, for instance, is "a very powerful antioxidant, and people will see improvement using a product like that." Prevage MD is available through physicians' offices.
Moranz says many companies tout topical collagen creams, which she calls "total baloney."
"The collagen molecule is too big to get into the skin as a cream; it must penetrate into the skin through cells." The only way to accomplish that, she says, is through collagen injections.
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