You've probably heard it a million times: To be healthier and look younger, you should use sunscreen daily; eat bright, colorful, nutrient-rich foods; not smoke; and stay active. And you've probably largely tuned out that advice, thinking that you're pretty powerless against fine lines and wrinkles anyway -- "My mom got them, so I will too" -- right?
But in the case of your skin, heredity doesn't have to be your destiny, according to David J. Leffell, M.D., a professor of dermatology and surgery at the Yale School of Medicine. "While genetics accounts for 110 to 20 percent of skin aging, factors that are within your power to control are responsible for the rest." So start tuning in. These seven easy steps can help save your skin now -- and forever.
1. Eat a smooth-skin diet. The phrase "You are what you eat" has become a cliche for a reason: A healthy diet does lead to a healthy body -- and to radiant, youthful-looking skin, say dermatologists. The four dietary components for good skin, according to Nicholas Perricone, M.D., author of The Wrinkle Cure, are proteins, healthy fats, good carbohydrates, and fresh fruits and vegetables.
Protein is made up of amino acids, the building blocks that cells use to repair themselves. Healthy fats, especially omega-3 fatty acids (in fish) and monounsaturated fat (in olive oil, avocados and almonds), have a powerful anti-inflammatory effect, which helps keep skin supple. Good carbs (e.g., whole grains like oatmeal) bolster cells' water-retention abilities to aid hydration. And fresh fruits and vegetables contain antioxidants that fight free radicals, aggressive molecules produced by your body and the environment, which attack and damage your cells.
Conversely, eating things that are unhealthy for your body can also harm your complexion. One of the worst? Sugar. "In a chain reaction called glycation, it binds to the collagen and elastin fibers in the skin, weakening them so that they're more likely to crack and break," says dermatologist Fredric Brandt, M.D., author of "Ten Minutes, Ten Years: Your Definitive Guide to a Beautiful and Youthful Appearance." As this process occurs, the entire support structure of the skin begins to droop, he says, making wrinkles more pronounced.
The amount of food you eat can also adversely affect your skin. At any age, drastically cutting back on calories or fat can make your skin appear saggy, explains Mary Lupo, M.D., a clinical professor of dermatology at Tulane Medical School in New Orleans. But as you get older, the elasticity of your skin decreases, and it may not bounce back to its shape the way it used to.
Your anti-aging Rx: In addition to consuming healthy foods -- and avoiding excessive sugar -- try adding these skin savers to your repertoire, suggests Howard Murad, M.D., associate clinical professor of dermatology at the University of California, Los Angeles:
- Salmon: A 3-ounce serving at least twice a week will yield the amount of protein and omega-3s you'll need for more radiant skin.
- Eggs: Two yolks a week can help keep your hormones and your skin in balance, says Murad.
- Pomegranates: One a day (the whole fruit, if possible) will deliver a high concentration of antioxidants.
2. Opt for simple but effective skin care. Although the skin is an amazingly resilient organ -- complete cell turnover occurs monthly -- it still pays to care for it gently if you want it to age beautifully. The best way? Follow a pared-down plan. "The more time-intensive your routine is, the harder it is to maintain it," says dermatologist David Bank, M.D., director of the Center for Dermatology, Cosmetic & Laser Surgery in Mount Kisco, New York
Your anti-aging Rx: Barring prescription creams and spot treatments, a daily routine should consist of five steps, says Bank:
- Use a mild cleanser in the morning and evening to remove makeup, oil, and debris, which can clog your pores and trigger breakouts. (Try Shiseido the Skincare Extra Gentle cleansing foam with skin-softening glycerin, $28; sca.shiseido.com.)
- Try an antioxidant serum, like Neutrogena Healthy Skin Anti-Wrinkle Intensive serum ($17; at drugstores) or SkinCeuticals C E Ferullc Combination Antloxidant treatment ($128; skinceuticals.com), both containing a blend of free radical-fighting vitamins to up your skin's defenses,
- Apply a moisturizer in the morning to hydrate and firm skin, such as Neutrogena Healthy Defense SPF 45 dally moisturizer ($12; at drugstores), Shiseido the Skincare Day Moisture Protection SPF15 PA+ ($38; sca.shiseido.com), or Olay Regenerist Micro-Sculpting cream ($25; at drugstores). If your moisturizer doesn't have an SPF of at least 15, top it with sunscreen, like Clarins UV Plus Protective day screen ($38; gloss.com).
- Slather on a cream at night that contains alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) or retinol, like Roc Retinol Correxion Deep Wrinkle night cream ($20; at drugstores), to encourage exfoliation and regenerate skin while you sleep, when cell turnover is at its peak and there's no harmful interaction with the sun. (In a study published in a recent issue of Archives of Dermatology, retinol was shown to improve the appearance of wrinkles associated with natural aging by increasing levels of glycosaminoglycan and procollagen, structural components of the skin.)
- Finally, use an exfoliator up to three times a week if your skin is dull and sallow. Our favorites: Neutrogena Illuminating Microderm cleansing pads ($8; at drugstores), which have two sides -- one conditioning, one sloughing; Avon Anew Clinical Advanced retexturizing peel ($25; avon.com) with glow-getting glycolic acid; and Kinerase Clear Skin Instant Radiance facial peel ($75; kinerase.com), which has dead cell-shedding salicylic acid to keep pores clean.
3. Boost your glow with exercise. "What's good for the heart is good for the skin," says Murad. During aerobic exercise your heart pumps harder and faster, sending oxygen-rich blood coursing throughout the body, including the skin cells. This keeps cells functioning optimally," explains Bank. Plus, there's no denying the immediate benefits -- that healthy, flushed look you get after an intense Spinning class, a run, or even a brisk walk.
Your anti-aging Rx: In addition to aerobic exercise (go for a minimum of 30 minutes of cardio most days of the week), try these moves once a day to increase blood flow and reduce stress, designed by yoga instructor Annelise Hagen, author of The Yoga Face.
- Modified shoulder stand: "This inverted pose slows your heart rate and brings blood to your face," says Hagen. Lie on your back, butt up against a wall, legs extended up. Place a rolled-up towel or a yoga block under the small of your back for support. Hold the position with your legs together, or spread apart for a stretch in the hips. "This helps you release tension, which gives you a less pinched appearance -- even after you're done exercising," says Hagen.
- Lion face This yoga classic also forces you to relax your facial muscles, so you don't furrow your brows, says Hagen. Sit cross-legged, and as you inhale, close your eyes and contract all of your muscles (make tight fists, clench your buttocks). Then exhale and release the muscles by opening your eyes, extending your hands, and sticking out your tongue.
4. Relax to reduce wrinkles. There's mounting evidence that feeling consistently under the gun can create wrinkles. Why? When you're in a stressful situation, your brain triggers the "fight or flight response," causing your body to produce more of the hormones adrenaline and cortisol, which enable you to act quickly in a crisis. "While it's okay for these hormones to be in your body in short bursts, many of us are perpetually stressed, so they're present at chronically elevated levels," says Bank. And that overload has been shown to suppress the immune system as well as constrict the blood vessels, which leads to a "cascade effect," he explains. "The skin's immunity is compromised, so it's less able to protect and repair itself. Plus, diminished circulation means less oxygen and fewer nutrients get to the skin."
Your anti-aging Rx: "One of the most effective ways to combat stress is to take 10 minutes or so every day to trigger the relaxation response [the direct opposite of 'fight or flight']," says Herbert Benson, M.D., director emeritus of the Benson-Henry Institute for Mind Body Medicine at Massachusetts General Hospital and a Shape advisory board member. "This helps to offset stress-hormone levels." He recommends this simple exercise:
- Pick a short word or phrase to focus on, something that is meaningful to you, such as peace.
- Sit quietly in a comfortable position with your eyes closed and relax your muscles progressively from your feet up to your head.
- Breathe slowly, saying your word or phrase to yourself as you exhale. Continue for 10 to 20 minutes.
5. Become savvy with sunscreen. Of course you use sunscreen, but do you know how much you're really being shielded from the sun's wrinkling ultraviolet A (UVA) rays? Probably not, since SPF is a measure of protection from the sun's burning ultraviolet B (UVB) rays only. Fortunately, "there is growing emphasis on formulating products with ingredients that also block UVA penetration," says Joel Cohen, M.D., assistant clinical professor of dermatology at the University of Colorado. One getting a lot of buzz: Anthellos SX ($29; at drugstores), with the active ingredient Mexoryl, which just received FDA clearance here last summer (the sunblock's powers have been touted in Europe for years).
Your anti-aging Rx: Dermatologists advise using sunscreen with an SPF of at least 15 (better yet, 30) every day on all exposed skin. And although there is no such thing as an FDA-approved UVA-protection factor rating yet, read labels for ingredients like Mexoryl (in Lancome UV Expert 20, $35; lancome-usa.com) and the newer and equally promising Helioplex. Studies on Helioplex have shown that it helps keep the UVA blocker avobenzone stable, making it more effective at combating these wrinkling rays. You'll find both ingredients in Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Dry Touch Sunblock SPF 70 ($10; at drugstores).
6. Get your beauty sleep. Logging too few hours of sleep can take a serious toll on your skin. Your metabolism is revved up all day but slows down (and produces fewer free radicals) while you slumber. "So if you're not sleeping enough, you're not only generating more free radicals than you're supposed to, your body is also missing out on that valuable downtime to repair the cellular damage they're causing," says Lupo. Position is important as well. "Sleeping on your face compromises circulation and the flow of oxygen to your facial cells," says Lupo, "while always lying on the same side of the face can lead to more pronounced lines and wrinkles on that side."
Your anti-aging Rx: Aim for eight hours a night of shut-eye, says Lupo, and try to sleep on your back with your head slightly lifted to prevent fluid from pooling under your eyes, producing saggy-looking bags. And if you simply can't sleep face-up, use a silk pillowcase, which may help avoid the creasing caused by continuously smooshing one side of your face.
7. Protect yourself against the environment. Daily pollution and cigarette smoke can both damage the skin. "Toxins you inhale are carried through your bloodstream, eventually making their way to the surface of your skin and triggering the release of free radicals," says Bank. And if you're a smoker, the danger could be even more pronounced: A recent study at the University of Michigan compared the skin on the upper inner arms (an area rarely exposed to UV rays) of 82 subjects and found that smokers had the most wrinkling.
Your anti-aging Rx: The best defense against environmental free radicals is to eat antioxidant-rich food and use topical preparations. "Free radicals are like little hand grenades, capable of wreaking havoc at all times," says Bank, "but if you have enough antioxidants in your skin, they can bond with and diffuse-free radicals before they cause deep cellular damage."
Source: Shape. Provided by ProQuest Information and Learning. Powered by Yellowbrix.
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