When’s the best time of year to visit Laos

I’ve spent a fair amount of time in Luang Prabang, Laos, and loved every minute of it. I stayed at Ammata Guest House (37 Khunsua Rd., Phonheung village; 856-71-212175 or 020-7607304; phetmanyp@yahoo.com), which I loved, for $15 a night (here’s a tip: room four on the second floor is a corner room with a nice view of the monks each morning from the lovely porch). These simple rooms have AC; but no fridge, TV, or safe. The guest house has a great little staff; wonderful pots, flowers, and plantings everywhere; and outdoor tables at which to relax. There is no breakfast service (but what do you want for $15?). Make sure to go to Saffron Cafe along the Mekong for the best fair-trade coffee in town. In the afternoon or evening try the Big Tree Café for lunch or dinner. Mi Ja just opened the restaurant and it is very good. (Her husband is a photographer so check out the gallery!)

I booked my first two nights in Laos at Ancient Luang Prabang Hotel across from the night market on the main street. It has beautiful rooms and great staff as well as wonderful bakery and computer cafe attached. But the downside is the rooms on the front are very noisy (though they do offer a private balcony). All rooms have AC, fridge, and TV (but no safe). You can secure rooms online for approximately $40 plus a booking fee.

Other great places to eat dinner in the area include Tum Tum Cheng (and also Tum Tum Banboo—run by the same owners) and Tamarind, all of which offer great Laos food as well as cooking classes. The Three Elephant restaurant and Blue Lagoon Cafe (best service in town) are both good. I loved the Sala Café. I was the only customer there and enjoyed a Laos BBQ (you must experience this: you cook the food on your table with sort of a BBQ/wok contraption that allows you to steam the veggies and cook your meat or fish).

For a tighter budget, I suggest Lao Wooden House at a little over $30 per night, and the Senesouk House (opposite Vatsene temple) at $25-$35 per night. The Sayo Guest House has large rooms with very high ceilings (it is one of the old French houses in the area) and also has two properties -- one on the water and one across from one of the Wats (temples). Rooms are from $30.

A must-see while you’re in the neighborhood is the Spa Garden (the same proprietors own the Aroma Spa on main street, too). This great spot offers more upscale massages than those generally found in Luang Pragang.

What to know before you go
Laos’ wet season runs roughly from May to October, and as with many Southeast Asian countries, it is characterized by a downpour for a few hours a day rather than all-day torrential rain. The cool and dry season runs from November to February and the hot dry season from March to April. Mid-October through December may be the best time for active travel as the rivers are still higher and good for river travel and the air is cool and days are relatively clear.

Be sure to look for the Full Moon festival at the end of October, during which candle lit bamboo boats built by the monks are floated down the Mekong!