Will New Labels May Make It Harder to Make Better Food Choices?

Unlike the shelf label systems created by grocery store chains, labels in the Smart Choices program will go on the products. Developed by a coalition of academics, public health organizations, food manufacturers and retailers, the program aims to unify the symbols on food products, so you can look for the system's green check-mark wherever you shop. It will replace the individual icons now used by Kellogg's, Kraft, PepsiCo, General Mills and Unilever.

However, the involvement of industry is "a classic case of the fox guarding the henhouse," said Dr. David Katz, director of the Yale Prevention Research Center, who led the development of the NuVal system.

Katz maintains that NuVal is the most comprehensive program. "It's not a product of anyone or anything in the food industry," he said. "Food manufacturers have no direct influence over us."

The American Heart Association's heart-check mark program also has faced nagging questions since it was developed in 1995.

Consider: Kellogg's Smart Start Strong Heart Antioxidants cereal has received AHA certification, though a one-cup serving has a whopping 14 grams of sugar. What's more, Kellogg's and other manufacturers pay for certification. Costs are between $3,150 and $7,500 a year depending on whether the product is new to the program or returning.

The AHA fends off the criticism by making two points. The first is that scientists disagree on how much to limit added sugars in a healthy diet, though most say less is better.

"You just can't judge by looking only at that sugar number," said Kim Stitzel, the AHA's director of nutrition and obesity. "Families know that when they choose a product with the heart check, it's a healthy choice."

The group also notes the amount of money received is relatively small. The $3 million the program brought in was less than 0.5 percent of the AHA's more than $641 million in revenues in the 2007-08 fiscal year, according to the AHA. Money from the program was spent on education, lab tests and other program costs.

The American Diabetes Association decided to scale back a similar program it ran and revise its guidelines after being criticized for endorsing unhealthy foods, including various sugar cereals, said Vaneeda Bennett, executive vice president for development.

"Perception is a big part of it," Bennett said. "We don't want to be involved with a product where the public would think, 'Boy, why would the ADA be involved with that?' "

Ultimately, consumers should keep in mind that if a food has a label, it is often a processed product that is less likely to be a healthy choice. In fact, when strict nutritional standards are applied, the vast majority of supermarket food doesn't make the cut under most of the programs.

"The real question is, is better junk food a good choice?" Nestle asked. Buying "healthier" potato chips, she said, "will delude you into thinking that you're doing something for your health when the best thing is to not eat them at all."